French terry and fleece start as the same knit. One keeps its loops, the other gets brushed. Here is how they differ in softness, warmth and breathability, which LIT hoodies use which, and how to wash both so they stay soft.
Contents · 7 sections · 4 min
The short answer: French terry and fleece are both knitted with loops on the inside. French terry leaves those loops as they are, so it is soft, smooth and breathable. Fleece has the loops brushed into a fluffy pile, so it traps more air and feels warmer and cosier. Choose French terry for year-round wear and layering; choose fleece for cold days and maximum cuddle.
What is French terry?
French terry is a knitted fabric with a flat, smooth face on the outside and small loops of yarn on the inside, a bit like the inside of a towel but finer. The loops sit against your skin, which makes it feel soft without being fluffy, and they leave channels for air and moisture to move. That is why French terry is the hoodie fabric of choice for spring, autumn and anyone who runs warm.
What is fleece?
Fleece starts life as the same looped knit, then the inside is brushed with fine wire rollers that tease the loops apart into a soft, raised pile. That pile traps a layer of warm air next to your body, which is why fleece feels instantly cosy. The trade-off is that it breathes a little less and can pill over time if it is washed hot or tumbled hard.
French terry vs fleece at a glance
| French terry | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside | Small, smooth loops | Brushed, fluffy pile |
| Feel | Soft and smooth | Plush and cosy |
| Warmth | Warm | Warmer |
| Breathability | Better | Lower |
| Best for | Year-round, layering, training | Cold days, lounging, after the gym |
| Pilling | Less likely | More likely if washed hot |
Which LIT hoodies use which?
- French terry, 450 gsm, 100% cotton: the LIT Sleeve Hoodie, the Cropped Mountain Hoodie and the LIT Pines Crewneck.
- Fleece, 450 gsm, 80% cotton and 20% polyester: the LIT Logo Hoodie in black and olive. The touch of polyester helps it keep its shape and adds warmth.
Because they are the same weight, the choice comes down to feel. If you like a hoodie that feels smooth and you wear it most of the year, go French terry. If you want the one you reach for on the coldest morning, go fleece.
Is cotton or a cotton blend better?
100% cotton breathes well, softens with every wash and feels natural on the skin. A cotton-rich blend with some polyester keeps its shape better, dries a little faster and resists shrinking. Neither is better in every way. The weight and the knit usually matter more than a 20% difference in fibre.
How to keep a hoodie soft (either fabric)
- Turn it inside out. It protects the outside face and any prints from rubbing.
- Wash cold. Hot water shrinks cotton and roughens fleece.
- Skip fabric softener. It sounds backwards, but softener coats the fibres, flattens the pile and makes the fabric less absorbent over time.
- Wash with similar fabrics. Towels and denim shed lint and rub fleece into pills.
- Dry low or hang. High heat is the fastest way to a stiff, shrunken hoodie.
- Do not iron the print. If you must, iron inside out on low.
If a fleece hoodie does pill, a fabric shaver or a quick pass with a sweater comb will lift the bobbles without damaging the knit.
The verdict
There is no losing option at 450 gsm. French terry is the everyday all-rounder; fleece is the cold-weather comfort pick. Plenty of people own one of each, and if you are building a matching set, the LIT Mountain Sweats pair with the chocolate Sleeve Hoodie for a full tonal look.
Topics
- french terry vs fleece
- what is french terry
- softest hoodie fabric
- fleece hoodie
- cotton hoodie
- warmest hoodie
- how to keep hoodies soft
- how to wash a hoodie
Common questions
Still wondering? Answered from the piece itself.
Is French terry or fleece softer?
Both are soft in different ways. French terry feels smooth and soft against the skin because of its small inner loops. Fleece feels plusher and fluffier because those loops have been brushed into a pile.
Is French terry warm enough for winter?
A heavy French terry, like the 450 gsm cotton used in several LIT hoodies, is warm enough for most cool days and for layering under a coat. For the coldest days on its own, brushed fleece is warmer.
Does French terry shrink?
Cotton French terry can shrink if washed hot or tumble dried on high. Wash it cold and dry it low or hang it. Pre-shrunk fabrics shrink much less.
Why is my fleece hoodie pilling?
Pilling usually comes from friction in the wash and from high heat. Wash fleece inside out in cold water, away from towels and denim, skip fabric softener, and dry on low. A fabric shaver removes existing pills.
Which LIT hoodies are French terry and which are fleece?
The LIT Sleeve Hoodie, the Cropped Mountain Hoodie and the LIT Pines Crewneck are 450 gsm 100% cotton French terry. The LIT Logo Hoodie is 450 gsm fleece in an 80% cotton, 20% polyester blend.
